We woke up on Saturday morning thinking that we were headed to an Indian wedding in nearby Dharamsala. But when I went out to buy our daily breakfast of homemade Tibetan bread, I ran into our friend, Rahul, who was supposed to be taking us to his friend's wedding. Rahul is one of the hardest workers I've met; therefore, it wasn't a surprise when I heard him call out, “Parminder!” and then proceed to tell us that he would not be able to go to the wedding today because he must go to work. He did say, however, that his brother, Mahinder, was going to his village, Kareri, and would be happy to take us there.
Kareri village has no road built to it, so Rahul said that we would take a bus for about an hour and a half to the end of the road, then we would hike the rest of the way... about 5 km or an hour and a half hike up the mountain to his village. We had heard about this village and had been eager to see it, so we jumped at this opportunity! Now I did consider the fact that we would be staying at his family's house, so there may be temporary consequences for our stomachs when we returned, but nonetheless were curious at what we would find. So off we went! :)
We met Mahinder at 10:25am and began our journey... which was far longer than we expected. We started off towards the taxi stand, Eric and I thinking that we would grab a taxi to meet the bus in Dharamsala... but we kept walking... through the forest, along a dirt road... it didn't take long for us to realize that we weren't just on our way to a bus stand, but we were walking from McLeod Ganj to Kareri Village! AH! Now, from what we're told this is only about 13 km, or approx. 8 miles. Honestly, that's not a far hike. But, see, Kareri Village is located on the top of a mountain that is 1800 meters, or 200 meters higher than McLeod Ganj. Not too mention that in order to get there, we had to walk over at least two mountains! So our 13 km hike through forests, monsoon rains, down streams, up and down mountains, took us 6.5 hours to complete... just you wait!
As I mentioned before, we started our trek walking through a taxi stand, then up our first mountain towards the Tibetan Children's Village (one of the best Tibetan schools in India, even partially supported financially by His Holiness the Dalai Lama). We were familiar with this path through the woods, taking it at least twice before (including the day prior). Then after walking through the school's campus we trekked through a small town area where the sacred Dal Lake is located. Dal Lake was so beautiful with its vast span of dirt and weeds... yeah, the infamous Dal Lake was a dried up crater amidst a beautiful forest... so much for maintaining its holiness. We continued along a dirt road till we came to a stone path (if you could call it a path) with stones haphazardly laid down the hill.
This is where the real fun began! After hiking another 20 minutes it started to rain. Luckily not for long, but it rained just enough to bring hungry leeches out for feasting! We started to climb down the mountain through a very shallow stream, shallow enough that we could step from rock to rock. We had been hiking pretty steadily (aside from one stop for chai) for the last hour and a half, when I felt a cold, slimy tinge on my ankle. Not knowing what it could be I knelt down to check my leg, and was horrified to see a leech latching onto me with his disgusting, sharp teeth! UGH! It gives me the heeby-jeebies just thinking about it! And not only did this happen once, not twice, but THREE times... and that's not including the times I found leeches on my shoes and pants. YUCK!
One time I saw a big one just hanging off my leg. I stopped, screamed like a 3-year-old girl, tried to desperately wipe him off my leg (My feeble attempts were exasperating and the harder I tried to wipe him off, the more frantic I got.) Eric was at least 30 feet in front of me by this point just staring back at how pitiful and frenetic I must've looked. (Yes, folks... he stood there until I whimpered a plea for him to come save me from the blood sucker attached to my leg. Thank you, honey...) Finally when he did come to wipe the leech off, he very calmly lifted my pant leg and carefully tried to flick it off. In my effort to stay calm, I almost kicked the poor guy in the face throwing him off balance and causing us to frantically yell at each other as he tried to keep me calm. Hmmm... I did say “in my effort to stay calm.”
Funny how I feel like I can “conquer the world” most of the time, and then feel helpless next to a 1-inch squirming worm-like slimy creepy lil' bugger... *brrr... here come the heeby-jeebies again!
The series of leech encounters made me paranoid for the rest of the trip. I would stop and check my legs any time I felt a tinge of wet chill only to hear Mahinder repeat (in a thick Indian accent of course) for the tenth time, “When you stopping, they are coming.” (Sounds like a line from a horror movie, doesn't it?!)
Finally after about an hour of traipsing through the leech-infested stream; climbing up and down mountains, we reached the village of Gada, the village where the road ends. We reached there just as the skies began to open up, and the monsoons quenched the Earth's thirst. We waited for about two hours until the monsoon stopped.
At the village, we just happened to run into Mahinder's mother and sister who were on their way to the wedding in Dharamsala... which by coincidence was the same wedding we thought we were attending in Kareri Village... Whoops no wedding I suppose!
Here, Eric and I also skipped across a small stream that had formed on top of the road to explore the general store nearby. Well, actually Eric just walked across because he was wearing his flip flops. I stood, staring at the small river that had formed wondering how I could possibly get through it without getting my sneakers wet. Then two Indian boys saw me and hopped from rock to rock as nimble as a mountain goat! (Mountain goats are quite good at leaping from rock to rock in case you didn't know.) They looked at me, insisting that I follow their lead. I, being the baby that I can be at times (and knowing that I am most certainly a klutz, and would probably slip and fall in the water) was not eager to follow in their footsteps, but the one boy took my hand and waited each time I jumped from rock to rock to ensure I didn't fall. And, folks, I made it! Phew! No wet feet for the rest of the journey!
I know I know... that wasn't quite as exhilarating for you as it was for me, but if you know me at all, you know I get more amusement out of the little things than most people do. :)
Anyway, moving on... after eating a few hardboiled eggs and a cup of chai, and waiting the rains out we were ready to start our journey again. We crossed a bridge overlooking rushing water, moving so fast it was white from the top of the mountain all the way down the mountain to the village we rested in. It was a brilliant sight; and as we continued up the mountain, the scenery only got more dramatic.
As we walked up we saw women carrying sacks of rice on their head (maybe 25kgs worth (that's 55lbs.!); and men carrying sacks on their backs weighing almost 40kgs (88lbs.)! They were trekking up an incredibly steep mountain carrying these awfully heavy loads! And once again, India put me to shame.
I am always in awe when I see the physical strength of the local Tibetan and Indian people. In McLeod Ganj, I've seen Tibetan women in their upper 60's, lower 70's carrying immense loads of branches on their back. I've seen Indian men, the size of Olive Oil from Popeye carrying refrigerators on their backs. I've seen Indian women, both young and old, balancing large woven baskets full of bricks on their heads in construction sites; and, now, these women are carrying 25 kg sacks of rice and flour on their heads for 5km all UPHILL! I mean, “Really!” Can you imagine doing this regularly just to be able to take food to your home? If a grocery store is more than 15 minutes away in the U.S. we groan just thinking about going there, but, here, there is no other way. Perhaps unless the family is fortunate enough to own a mule.
Continuing on our journey... after a long hike up the mountain we came to land with many mini corn fields. The combination of corn fields, lush green forests, and the cute stone path we followed created the impression that we were walking through an imaginary world, only existing in our dreams. I'm not exaggerating in the least either. There were times where I had to remind myself that what I was seeing was real and not make believe, it was that unbelievably beautiful! On the side of the mountain were three rivers of rushing white water that met at the bottom of the mountain. Also it seemed water was streaming down from so many places, adding to the healthy environment that we were passing through. I breathed in the air like it was medicine for my body; the air was so clean that I'm sure my cells were jumping for joy at its mercy!
Eric and I hiked further ahead of Mahinder and his friend and discovered a kind Indian family who invited us to their home for chai while we waited for our friends. It just so happened that they were Mahinder's friend's cousins. How about that? So we all gathered on the porch for about 20 minutes just asking each other questions, curious about the lives in which we each live. One of their daughters was maybe 15 years old, she was the most memorable. She was the one who initially invited us to their home. She was so kind, so openly welcoming. She had an outgoing yet slightly timid personality that was such an endearing and unique combination! We only wish that we could've spent more time with she and her family.
But we were urged to keep moving because the monsoons were soon to follow. We were maybe 20 minutes from Mahinder's home when the monsoon stormed through again. We ducked into a Hindu Temple, which to me did not look like a temple at all, yet more like a cement home which was abandoned for many years. Our friend had picked up a friend of his own on the way, and they delighted in some whiskey drinking to pass time. Eric and I stayed outside as I desperately tried to fall asleep, exhausted from the day's events, while Eric enjoyed the scenery. We stayed there for about 20 to 30 minutes then finished off the rest of the day's hike.
When we reached Kareri Village, we followed a small stone path through two corn fields. We passed by a few small homes with children playing on the stone patios, buffalo (young and old) munching on fresh grass picked from nearby meadows, and curious onlookers who had not seen many Westerners in the village.
Then we saw Mahinder's house standing alone on the mountainside. We ducked through trees and bushes, walked through small streams (where I was graced with the presence of yet one more leech, Argh!), we had finally reached his home! Phew! What a sigh of relief this was to my wobbly legs and sleepy eyes.
At Mahinder's home, we met his wife, two adorable children, father, and brother's wife. They were all very hospitable. We stayed for a bit, (had another cup of chai, our fourth for the day) and then ventured out to explore a little more of the village until sun down. Mahinder showed us the highest point of Kareri Village.
You could see how proud he was of his home. He explained that a road was being built to the village and by next year it should be complete. I wanted to cry though when he said that the taxi stand would probably be at the exact point we were standing. This would diminish the beautiful, untouched environment. Mahinder was happy to finally have a road so that the hospital would be easier to get to and families could open stores, and perhaps earn a better living.
But I don't think he understands how valuable the life is that they are currently living... although I don't think I understand how desperately they truly need access to a road. He is thinking about the well-being of the families in the village, and I am thinking about preserving the natural surroundings; two equally important ideals. (This could be debated by others, but we'll save the editorials for another person's blog.)
Afterwards, Mahinder took us to his friend's home who insisted on having us visit. We enjoyed some delicious mint tea (made only with fresh mint leaves and boiled water, with sugar added to our liking). We spoke and played with the many children who came from neighboring homes while our friend and some of the other men hid away and drank whiskey in the house. (Do you see a theme going on here?)
The kids we were speaking with were delightful! One boy around the age of 5 was incredibly mischievous though... to tell you the truth, I didn't like him. He would go around and hit the girls just because he thought it was funny, and he would try and spit on me so that he could see my reaction, Argh. So until he calmed down a bit, I devoted my attention to some of the older boys who were nearby.
One of them was going to school in Dharamsala and just visiting his home for holiday (or vacation, as we say in America). He was very intelligent, and inspiring to speak to because he comes from such a remote village, and yet he still maintains the ambitious dreams of becoming a civil engineer, he was also well-spoken [in English]. I love to meet individuals who are seeking more and more education than what their environment can offer. It means that either they were courageous enough to seek the education, or their parents were selfless enough to give their kids a better education, both admirable qualities, both difficult decisions to pursue.
While we stayed at their house, Eric watched another man chop wood, he was eager to try it himself so he quickly insisted on lending a hand. I watched as Eric chopped the large tree trunk with an old ax, praying that he wouldn't miss the trunk. But it was surreal sitting with the local Indian families, the momma and baby donkeys standing alongside the patio, the child peeking out the window of a small barn caddy corner of the home we were sitting in, and a baby calf standing quietly watching everyone, not a complaint in the world. At that moment, and every time I looked over the mountain into the valley of rushing white waters, and lush forests... I thought... okay, fending off the leeches was worth seeing this paradise.
Nightfall was coming on quickly so we gathered our extra happy friend from the home and had him lead us back to his house where we would be spending the night. He was so kind, insisting that we were not going to HIS home, we were going to OUR home. This was his mindset the whole time, and the Indian mindset when you are welcomed to a home, it is now your home. We reached our home just before dark and sat around the kitchen fire which also served as the stove, while we waited for dinner to be served. We sat watching in wonder as one of the women made chapattis. She grabbed a wad of dough out of a large bowl, almost 3 feet in diameter, rolled it into a small ball, slapped it onto the cooking space, and proceeded to roll it into a perfectly round chapatti. Then she picked it up threw it from hand to hand to get rid of the excess flour and tossed it on the metal plate sitting just above the fire. After cooking both sides she picked up the chapatti and tossed it into the fire! The bread puffed up like a whoopie cushion getting ready to blow! Neat, huh?
That night we sat around the small fire that was used for cooking; on thatched sacks used as seat cushions enjoying our curry, rice, chapattis, and chai. (A simple yet delicious meal, that was thankfully vegetarian!) We enjoyed some laughter, dancing with kids (of course I had to show them some of my Bhangra moves!), and hearing the eldest of the house repeat, “You are good man!” to both Eric and to me (lol). It was a memorable night.
Mahinder graciously showed us the room we would be staying in, as well as his little friend who happened to be an extra large black spider who lived in a hole in the wall just caddy corner from our bed. He could tell I was a little freaked by it so he said, “Oh don't worry. This is my friend, he will not hurt you.” Then he proceeded to scare the spider into the hole, and lodge his own arm into the hole not once, but twice to show me that the spider would not bite. I was still skeptical.
Eric laid down on the bed and the first thing he said was, “This will make us appreciate our bed in McLeod Ganj.” The bed was solid wood with a very thin cushion lain over top... it was like sleeping on a brick! I didn't sleep well that night to say the least.
We woke up nice and early, stiff and tired from the long hike the day before (and a night of restless sleep). Eric started helping to feed the buffalo grass with one of the women. I watched while enjoying the gorgeous surroundings, then I helped her fetch water from the outside faucet to take inside.
We had a breakfast of potatoes, chapatti, and chai and quickly began our trek back home by 7:30am. The morning sun was divine. And the corn fields and mountainsides were blessed with a brilliant, lively green shade, which when combined with the sunlight makes you wonder whether your stepping through heaven. As we hiked we were unsure whether we would hike the whole way home or take a bus when we reached the town with road access. Well, let me rephrase that. Eric and Mahinder were not sure. I, on the other hand, was VERY certain that we were taking a bus.
My stomach was feeling a bit sick from the curry the night before. Stomach cramps were settling in, preparing me for my friend to come any day now, and the Big 'D' had paid another visit. Oh, did I mention that my legs felt like Jello sticks every time I took a step down the mountain? I'm not proud of this, but would you believe an older woman, around the age of 65, passed me up wearing a beautiful salwar and nice sandals?! Here I am a 25-year-old wearing my sneakers, trekking down the mountain and I had to let this woman (and her husband) pass me by! Shameful to me, really is, but these Indians are tough!
So we finally reached the bridge at the bottom of the mountain near the town, and Eric wanted to get one last look at the mountain. … Before I say what I'm about to say, take note of this. Eric wore his flip flops all the way down the mountain, where we were climbing over sharp rocks, through small streams, and all; and he didn't have any issues. Okay, now I can continue... so Eric decides to point out how beautiful the mountain is. He says, “Pammi, look how beautiful the mountai--- OW!” And that's the point where he stubs his toe on the ONLY rock in the entire bridge, so much so that he starts bleeding! (Now no worries, all! Eric is okay and his toe has healed completely.) But what are the odds that he would trip on the only rock in the entire bridge the second that he looks up to point up the mountain. Hehe Oh dear.
At this point we took the bus (hehe Told you so.) from Gada to Dharamsala, then a taxi to McLeod Ganj. I was feeling fairly ill, too ill to hike the rest of the way, and I think Eric was thankful for the ride considering the mishap with his toe just two minutes before. Mahinder decided to hike another 40 minutes and try to catch a bus in the next town. I just let him be because that next 40 minute hike was up hill through the leech infested waters that I so very dreaded from the day before. YUCK!
I laid my head down for the entire 1 hour and a half bus ride back to Dharamsala because I'm pretty sure I would've had a similar episode to the Amritsar bus ride if I would've tested the upright waters. When we finally reached McLeod Ganj, we fixed up Eric's foot with some antiseptic, Eric went to an Internet cafe, and I went to bed. When Eric came back just an hour later, he fell asleep too and we slept for another 4 hours!(Trust me, you would too, after fending off leeches, trekking up mountains, sleeping in a wooden bed, and all!)
We woke up pretty well rested and only slightly ill. Eric had the “Big D” (worse than me), and my stomach only felt slightly uneasy. I knew before starting this adventure, that there would most likely be digestive consequences, but I figured the experience would be worth it. I was sure right. This hike will go down as one of our most memorable experiences in India!
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